Microchipping - All puppies come microchipped, but make sure you update it to your details to allow your puppy to be quickly reunited with you.
Vaccinations - 3 vaccine doses are given 4 weeks apart. All puppies come with their first dose.
They should have a second dose between 10-12 weeks of age
Third dose should be around 14-16 weeks.
You can then titer test annually to ensure their immunity is maintained.
Intestinal worming - Puppies are wormed while with their mother, and you should then worm them again at 12 weeks.
Continue at 4, 5 and 6 months old.
Then every 3 months for life.
Heartworm prevention - A heartworm injection can be given at 3 months and 9 months, then yearly for life,
OR a home treatment (tablet or 'spot on') given monthly for life.
Flea control - Tablet or 'spot on' options are available (tablets are especially good for puppies who like to swim). This can be combined with monthly heartworm protection.
Healthy diet - Covered more below under 'Feeding'.
Pet insurance - Even with the best genetics and health care, unexpected illnesses and injuries can sometimes happen. Having pet insurance can make it easier to afford the best treatment available for your dog. There are vets who offer a 'gap only' service too.
Council registration - Register your dog with your local government, which is required for all puppies over 3 months old.
Training - Puppy School is tailored to the needs of young puppies 8-18 weeks old. Basic obedience classes are great for older puppies.
Desexing - There is no desexing contract for Odindisa Vallhunds. Desexing is not encouraged as it is healthy for the dog to maintain those hormones. However if you are keen to neuter your dog, then the dog should not be desexed until the dog has reached full maturity (at least 12 months old). Desexing does prevent unplanned litters. Council registration fees are also lower for desexed pets, so you can get a refund on that portion from your council once your dog has been neutered.
Emergency care - It's important to have a plan if your puppy is sick or injured after hours. Make sure to keep the numbers of emergency care vets on hand, just in case.
Puppies at Odindisa are fed raw mince meat, goats milk and yoghurt. You can start off with a handful of raw meat and a spoonful of yoghurt, served once in the morning and again in the evening.
Usually dogs at Odindisa are fed the following for their meals:
WildPet Real Prey raw pet food
Carefully selected kibbles, eg. Lifewise, Scratch and Petzyo
Natural Greek Yoghurt
Hemp powder
Slippery elm
Crushed pumpkin seeds
Sardines in oil
Goats milk
Treats include roo tails, chicken frames/necks and dried roo tendons. Dehydrated chicken and liver are used for training.
In order for a food to be sold on the market, it has to meet the Australian Standard (AS 5812-2017) for the Manufacturing and Marketing of Pet Food (in USA this equates to AAFCO requirements). This means the has to be properly balanced, with the right nutritional content. Price does not have an affect on this - the rules are the same for every company. The most researched food on the market can also be one of the cheapest.
Kibble made in overseas factories means the food produced is to the AAFCO requirements.
Odindisa's kibbles are sourced from 100% Australian-owned companies, manufacturing exceptional quality pet foods right here in Australia. There is a very small percentage of ingredients that are sourced from overseas, mostly highly specialised ingredients such as some of the vitamins that simply aren’t produced in this country.
Puppy socialization refers to the process of exposing puppies to different people, animals, objects, environments, and experiences to help them develop appropriate social and behavioral skills. It is a critical period in a puppy's life and usually occurs between the ages of 3 and 14 weeks, although the socialization period can extend up to 16 weeks.
Socializing a puppy involves gradually introducing them to various stimuli in a controlled and positive manner, so they learn how to interact with the world around them. The goal is to help puppies feel comfortable and confident in new situations, reduce their fear and anxiety, and prevent behavior problems later in life.
Effective socialization involves exposing puppies to a variety of people, including men, women, children, and people of different races and ages. Puppies should also be introduced to other animals, such as dogs, cats, and other pets. They should be exposed to different sounds, sights, and environments, including car rides, busy streets, parks, and pet stores. You can use the list on the right for some ideas.
During socialization, it is essential to expose puppies to positive experiences and reward them for their good behavior. It is also crucial to avoid overwhelming them with too much stimuli or exposing them to situations that could traumatize or harm them. Reading your puppy's body language will help cue you to when they may be overwhelmed. You can then help reduce that feeling by increasing distance between the puppy and the stimulus.
Socializing a puppy is a critical part of their development that helps them become well-adjusted, confident, and friendly adult dogs. It is essential to start socializing puppies at an early age and to do so in a positive and controlled manner.
Puppy socialisation is NOT just about playing with other dogs. In fact, too much uncontrolled exposure to other dogs can cause so many unintended consequences.
If you have a puppy, make sure you try to work on ALL aspects of socialisation.
The decision about where, how, and when to socialise your puppies is a highly personal decision based on local risk factors and benefits. Once the puppy is fully immunized, we can be less conservative in our socialization activities, at least from a biosafety standpoint.
Your puppy will experience two fear periods, both of which are a normal evolutionary part of puppy development. No amount of socialization can prevent them, but the good thing is you can help your puppy to work through them and come out the other side more confident.
Puppies will generally experience their first fear period around 8–11 weeks. Coincidentally, this fear period happens right around the time they are coming home and adjusting to a new family, and starting to explore the world. Recognizing that puppies are very impressionable, you want to be thoughtful about what your puppy experiences during this critical time. It’s essential to not overwhelm a new puppy and instead to create situations where they can explore meeting new people and having new experiences without being pressured or forced to interact.
This second period often takes new puppy owners by surprise. Small breed dogs tend to experience their second fear periods earlier than large breed and giant breed puppies. This second fear period can be especially disorienting for owners because your 6-14-month-old may look like an adult dog, so it can be hard to remember that your dog is still a puppy and emotionally developing.
It can feel like everything you taught your puppy has fallen apart. The confident, engaged, and smart puppy you had just a day ago is now insecure and worried about a harmless object. Don’t worry—this isn’t forever!
Use the following steps to work through these fear periods.
Step 1: Allow your puppy to move away from whatever they are scared of.
Step 2: Praise and reward your puppy for looking to you for guidance, and for looking at the object that scared them.
Step 3: Allow your puppy to control how close they get to what scared them, and don’t pressure or lure them to get closer. Praise and reward with treats or toys as well as for any positive curiosity or interaction including looking at the object, stepping towards it, sniffing, etc.
Step 4: Keep the training session short and fun. It’s okay if your puppy doesn’t overcome the fear and get completely comfortable with the object that frightened them. End with lots of treating/praising.
Step 5: Try not to make a big deal about the thing your dog is afraid of, but incorporate it into future training sessions. Reward your puppy for looking at you, and any engagement with the thing they are scared of. If possible, engage your puppy with a toy. Let the puppy control the pace and stay at a distance they are comfortable with.
It's important to remember that for every 1 hour of play, your puppy will need 2-3 hours of sleep during its first few weeks with you.
The Joyful Dog has compiled a great guide on appropriate levels of exercise for your puppy. The guides are replicated below from their blog.
Most important to remember is to refrain from stairs and sharp turns until your puppy is 12 months old, as these movements can result in spiral fractures.